The Jewellery of Powerhouse Europe

Italy’s jewellery manufacturing prowess and fine craftsmanship are something jewellers from across the world have tried to emulate. From its gold that has an inimitable, buttery glow to the country’s ability to blend the best of tradition and technology, the jewellery industry of Italy has been a force to reckon with.

Overview
Italy has the 8th largest export economy in the world with a GDP per capita income of $38,200. It exports jewellery worth $6.04 billion to countries like India, the U.S., Germany, France, the Middle East and the UK. Gold ranks number second in Italy’s top most export commodities amounting to $3 billion annually, followed by platinum amounting to $1.24 billion. Italy constitutes about 1 per cent of the global gold export market with competition from countries like India and Germany.

Italy is one of the world leaders in luxury goods with jewellery being one of the most important luxury commodities in the industry. In 2017, the sector gained momentum with exports growing by 12 per cent (3.4 billion Euros). The economy in Italy, which is otherwise going through a tumultuous phase, is witnessing a boom in the jewellery sector, thanks to a steady demand from countries like France and the U.S.

As on 2015, the country had more than 7700 players in the jewellery sector that employed around 20,000 people. Gold, platinum and silver (in that order) are the three main raw materials used to make jewellery. It is not without reason that Italy is called the Powerhouse of European Jewellery industry. Be it crafting with the finest of corals, Murano glass or gold, the jewellers of Italy have passed on their skill and craftsmanship through generations. The artisans have sought for perfection over the years that today when it comes to excellence in gold, Italy is the first country that comes to mind. Every country wants to mirror Italy when it comes to craftsmanship of jewellery.

The Gold Standard
Gold in Italy is precious in every sense. The jewellery is mostly crafted in 18K gold and the metal almost lilts with a sublime sheen that is hard to find in pieces crafted in other countries. While Italy has employed its best kept secret, its pristine craftsmanship that goldsmiths have perfected over the years, it has also managed to embrace the latest in technology. The mélange between the old and the new, old when it comes to its attention to detailing and craftsmanship and new when it comes to employing state-of-the-art technology, is what makes Italy a kingpin when it comes to jewellery. There are regions in Italy that are known for their expertise when it comes to gold jewellery.

The country has also been ahead of its times when it comes to jewellery manufacturing. Vicenza, one of the foremost jewellery hubs of Italy had 150 members in its goldsmiths’ guild as early as 1300. The city is also home to one of the world’s most prestigious exhibitions, Vicenzaoro. Vicenza has more than 900 players including small artisans to big jewellers like Roberto Coin. It manufactures gold jewellery for the medium to high-end market and is known for hollow gold and molded pieces of jewellery. The hilly town of Arezzo on the other hand makes jewellery for the masses albeit with the trademark Italian craftsmanship. The world over is made in this sleepy town in Tuscany. A few kilometers up north lies the beautiful town of Valenza, which masters in handcrafted jewellery. Known for its one-off pieces using the finest of gold, the goldsmithing techniques in this city is second to none even today. Now, Valenza has over 1500 manufacturing companies who work mostly using precious stones: almost 80 per cent of precious stones imported to Italy are crafted in Valenza. Some of the most renowned high jewellery brands such as Bulgari, Chopard, Cartier, Damiani and the like have their manufacturing units in Valenza. The historic district of Torre del Greco in the Neapolitan region is known for its beautiful cameo work on corals. A skill that gained popularity in the 17th century, today the region has over 700 companies that specialises in coral and other shell cameos.

Before gemstones became popular across the world, gold was a prime material of choice and no country materialized as much on gold as Italy. The aesthetic and allure of beautiful jewellery probably runs in their blood that even today, Italian designers are known for their exquisite pieces and are also responsible for promoting tourism in Italy.Italian gold chains are exported to different parts of the world. The technique of making delicate yet durable chains has put Italy on the pedestal for this rather distinguished skill. From classic link chains, s-links, gourmette links, Venetian chains with square links to anchor chains, Italy has given the world hundreds of varieties of chains. But chains are not everything the country is known for – juicy, delicious rings with gold and gemstones taking references from architecture or pure yellow gold rings with mesh detailing and in dome styles were also widely popularized by Italian craftsmen.

When it comes to earrings, many styles are classically Italian – ribbed hoops in 18K gold, earrings with lace detailing, love knots, classic Byzantine style hoop earrings, classic doorknocker earrings and other styles are all exclusive to Italy. All in all, braided gold jewellery is distinctly Italian, it is a craft the Etruscans left behind 3000 years ago which still remains popular to this day.

Legendary Italian Jewellery Brands
BVLGARI
Bulgari is one of the best Italian jewellery brands. Steeped in tradition, Sotirio Voulgaris opened his first shop under the Bulgari name in Rome in 1884. Ever since its inception, the brand has weaved in quintessentially Italian elements and heritage into its designs. From using the Roman Colosseum as an inspiration to using ancient Greek serpentine motifs in their jewellery, Bulgari is known for its groundbreaking innovations. The iconic Tubogas technique mostly used in its necklace designs and even watches was popularized by none other than Bulgari.

BUCCELLATI
Found in Milan in 1919, Buccellati was the first jewellery boutique in Largo Santa Margherita. The brand is known for imbuing romanticism of old Italian luxury in each of its pieces with plenty of voluptuous gemstones. The renaissance inspired designs and painstaking texturing of gold with detailed hand engraving attracted elite clientele from around the world. From Royal families of Italy, Spain, Egypt and England to Pope Pius XI and Pope Pius XII, Buccellati has served many distinguished clients over time. Today among other collections, Buccellati is known for its Unica collection which boasts of rich gold with elaborate engraving – the collection accounts for about 70 per cent of Buccellati’s sales.

ROBERTO COIN
As compared to traditional, heritage brands, Roberto Coin may be relatively new (1977) but its seamless amalgam of traditional techniques and modern designs put the brand on the global map. He was and still remains to be the only jeweller to embed his pieces with a small hidden ruby on the inside of each piece. The brand reached great heights in a very short span of time and soon gained the reputation of one of the most sought after luxury brands. Today, Roberto Coin, produces anywhere around 600 – 100 handcrafted designs every year.

DAMIANI
What started off as a small, family business by Enrico Grassi Damiani, soon became one of Italy’s leading jewellery brands among Royals and elites. Known for its exquisite diamond jewellery, though listed, the brand very much is still a family-owned set up. In the 80s, the brand expanded by setting up its headquarters in Milan and the number of retailers who would stock Damiani’s pieces also increased world over. From the moonshine ring, the classic floral motif necklace to the tassel necklace and the famed metropolitan collection, Damiani’s designs have stood the test of time.